October 24, 2010

The Bay Area Bucket List: Simply the best things to do in and around San Francisco

My friends often call me a de facto representative of the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce, since I'm always such an advocate for the city and its surroundings. A common refrain from me is that it's "just a better life" out here -- with our amazing culinary culture, our proximity to so many incredible places from mountains to beaches and everything in between, our big city benefits yet small city feel, and our unique ability to welcome diversity of people, thought (not sure about this one anymore -- we may be closed-minded about being open-minded, but that's not the topic for this blog entry), culture, etc.

In writing this Bucket List, I recognize that one of the very things that I appreciate most about the Bay Area is that you can truly stumble upon a magical new place or sensory discovery at almost any moment. However, a "bucket list" is a list of activities or experiences you want to ensure you've had before you die. I audaciously claim that you have not sufficiently enjoyed this place as a resident nor have you really seen what the Bay Area has to offer as a tourist if you've missed any of the following wonders:

In "The City"
  • Ferry Plaza Farmers Market -- Go early on a Saturday morning if you can, in order to have access to the best bounty from the local area farmers. Try to find dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes from Dirty Girl Produce, figs of many varieties at Knoll Farms, lettuces from Star Route Farm, goat cheese made fresh that morning from Bodega Goat Cheese. Any day of the week, you can and should enjoy a cheese sampling at Cowgirl Creamery, a fresh marshmallow from Michael Recchiuti Confections, an apricot or plum or cherry tart from Frog Hollow Farms, the biggest mushroom selection I've ever seen at Far West Fungi, olive oils from Stonehouse, coffee from Blue Bottle Coffee Co, oysters and amazing grilled cheese at Hog Island, great Vietnamese food at Slanted Door or Out the Door, one of the best value meals anywhere at Il Cane Rosso, and an incredible Ahi burger at Gott's Roadside
  • Seeing the San Francisco Ballet or listening to the San Francisco Symphony in the Stern Grove wooded amphitheater -- I'm not sure there's a better setting for music or the arts anywhere. If there is one, it needs to be on my life's Bucket List.
  • A Giants game at AT&T Park -- Arguably the most aesthetically impressive stadium in professional sports, it's a downtown park with views of the Bay and absolutely not a single bad seat.
  • Walking Land's End trail -- At and around the very tip of the San Francisco Peninsula with gorgeous views through the Golden Gate and across the mouth of the Bay to the Marin Headlands
  • "First Tuesdays" at SF MOMA -- The first Tuesday of every month, you can get into SF MOMA for free. It's usually a bit crowded, but it's also usually well worth the visit and the wait.
  • Sailing on the Bay -- Find a way to get on the water, move without a motor, and see the city from a completely different angle.
  • Bay to Breakers -- I'm not sure there's more of a signature event for the city than this, and it's always one of the best weekends of the year to be in town.
  • Golden Gate Park and all its splendors -- The park has so many things to offer, it's definitely undervalued by many. Check out the rose garden, the North American Bison, and the all-white-wearing lawn bowlers.Or just grab a book, find a tree and read.
  • San Francisco's best takes on Italian Food -- Delfina and Dopo (in Oakland)
  • Running through the Presidio -- Find a trail and go.
  • The best and most unique Cafes -- Grab the best bread you can get, some baked goodies, or a sandwich at Tartine and grab a coffee from the Japanese siphon bar at Blue Bottle Coffee
Outside "The City"
  • An oyster picnic at Hog Island in Marshall (Point Reyes) -- Bring your own oyster shucking knife, and be sure to enjoy some Kumamotos and Sweetwaters (I prefer the extra small variety, but they'll give you several size choices).
  • Weekend trip to Tahoe -- In sun or snow, Lake Tahoe is a destination for outdoor fun. North shore, for sure.
  • A day in Healdsburg -- Perhaps the "cutest" town in California about 1 hour North of The City, you can eat well, shop the square, and enjoy local Russian River Valley wineries without the hype and touristy madness of its sister valley over the hill, Napa. Make a picnic for yourself from Oakville Grocery, enjoy a burger at Healdsburg Bar and Grill, or step it up a notch (or three) and dine at Cyrus. Favorite wineries nearby: Dutton-Goldfield, Williams-Selyem, Gary Farrell, Copain and Rochioli.
  • Eating in Yountville -- Tuna tartare and fish tacos at the Bar at Redd; cream of tomato soup en croute at Bistro Jeanty; fried chicken at Ad Hoc; oysters and croque madame late-night at Bouchon
  • Hiking Mount Tamalpais -- Through the trees, across the streams and down to Stinson Beach from the Pan Toll station, you can take a zillion different routes; they're all worthwhile. Do it in the sun, and also, do it in the fog and in the rain. They're each distinct experiences that bring such different colors, sounds and smells. Just be prepared for the weather, and enjoy!
  • A summer concert, at sunset, at the Greek Theater in Berkeley -- You'll have the incredible backdrop of a colorful sunset over the Bay while enjoying the tunes.
  • A visit to Chez Panisse -- This is what started it all (whether it's San Francisco's foodie culture, or California Cuisine, or being a "locavore", or enjoying sustainable or organic farming processes). Go see for yourself what Alice Waters did to revolutionize food.
  • Whitewater river rafting on the Tuolomne River -- You can do one day or an overnight trip. While there are loads of terrific river rafting experiences available in California, this one tops the rest with exciting adventure combined with over-the-top natural beauty and seclusion.
  • Touring Steinbeck country in Salinas and Monterey -- While you're at it, check out the 17-mile drive in Pebble Beach, but focus on some of Steinbeck's old haunts and landscapes.
  • An overnight trip to Mendocino -- Great coastal village with local farms, beautiful walks along the sea, and a real old-time California feel. 
  • A beer on the lawn at The Pelican Inn -- Preferably after a hike along the coast to Muir Beach on a sunny day, go inside to this traditional English pub and have them do a real "pull" of a draught English stout or ale, then bring it outside and sit down on the front lawn with friends and enjoy.
  • Views, vines and vino in Rutherford and Calistoga -- Favorite wineries for both good settings and great tastings include Quintessa, Joseph Phelps, and Ridge.
Do you love one of our great museums, have a favorite overlook in Half Moon Bay, enjoy going to the Chabot Center, swear by a particular yoga class, or eagerly await some annual event every year? Surely, I've missed some experiences that I may have forgotten or should be added to my own personal Bay Area Bucket List, so please nominate your favorites!

October 08, 2010

Ten Best Expense Account Restaurants in San Francisco

Normally, my blogs rank the best places to eat per dollar and thus are skewed towards more casual options. Those are still my first choices, because I skew towards more casual options as a rule, and quite frankly, value matters to me. But when money's no object, you've got a visitor or special occasion to celebrate, or someone else is footing the bill, here are the ten best places in the San Francisco Bay Area (noted in parentheses if not in the city of San Francisco) to dine out:

  1. Gary Danko -- It's not news to anyone to suggest it on the top of any list, but Gary Danko is the site of many a perfect meal, and the three course tasting menu is actually a pretty good deal.
  2. Ritz Carlton Dining Room -- Ron Siegel is San Francisco's most artistic chef. Do the Chef's Tasting Menu to see the full spectrum of talent on display, assuming you have the time (and you should try to make time for it). 
  3. Boulevard -- Nancy Oakes is still making some of San Francisco's finest cuisine. You can never, ever go wrong eating at Boulevard.
  4. Delfina -- Craig and Annie Stoll are the envy of chefs everywhere for how they can make simple food taste this good, day after day, at a price even other chefs can afford. You want to see where famous chefs dine in San Francisco, this is is usually the first choice, and you will know why when you visit.
  5. Chez Panisse (Berkeley) -- Alice Waters is still in the kitchen here, and if you know anything about food, you must know about her. This is the origin of California Cuisine, and they're still teaching people about how to eat fresh, locally, sustainably, and beautifully.
  6. Redd (Yountville) -- One of those places where I prefer both the atmosphere and the menu at the bar -- which is at or near the top of my overall list -- the restaurant itself has more than its share of merit for your, or someone else's, wallet. They simply do everything perfectly; the food is a great reflection of the bounty of the environs.
  7. Dopo (Oakland) -- Always one of my top ten on my overall rankings because it's just the best value around, the menu is the perfect size and so is the restaurant, and the staff is as welcoming as you'll find anywhere. It's still "the neighborhood restaurant every neighborhood wishes it had" but this is a place to go regardless of your budget because you can't do better for an authentic, fresh, Italian meal made with love.
  8. Harris' -- The best place for beef in SF, period. Their dry-aged beef and old-school steakhouse charm will please anyone looking for a great steak dinner. I'd put this place up there with the best of New York and Chicago any day.
  9. Zuni Cafe -- You'll hear this place described as the "quintessential San Francisco restaurant" and that characterization is well-deserved. Judy Rodgers is still going strong. Have the roast chicken and enjoy that amazing bread salad.
  10. Spruce -- If you're on your own dime or want a more casual option, enjoy the burger in the bar area, not to mention their fantastic cocktails. But when you want to step it up a notch, eat at the restaurant and enjoy one of the finest dining experiences you can have anywhere.
Still good, and reasonable back-ups if you can't get a table at one of the above, here are the "close but no cigar," "not-quite-top-ten-worthy" restaurants for this expense account category:

Some that I haven't yet had the opportunity to sufficiently evaluate but are likely to compete for a spot on one of the above lists include Tyler Florence's new opening, Wayfare Tavern, Melissa Perello's Frances, ex-French Laundry chef Corey Lee's Benu, and Nancy Oakes' Prospect. I will update this entry as soon as I've been to each of these a few times and can comment with sufficient experience.

Notably missing from this list are French Laundry and Cyrus, the two places most critics would say compete for best restaurant on the planet, forget the Bay Area. They're just so pricey, I can't recommend them to anyone. You can't ask a company to pay for this nor a friend. However, if you're a foodie, they're experiences you simply must have at some point in your life, so plan it as an event, and don't ever even think about the bill.

And just in case you've read the Michelin guide, are an avid Zagat fan, or received advice from an unqualified foodie, let me give you a list of places NOT to go that often pop up in these other recommendation venues:
  • A16 -- I don't get it. People cram into this place, but they can't serve a pizza without a soggy middle to save their lives, and no Italian restaurant should screw up pizzas. If you want to stay within their family, go to sister restaurant SPQR; the pastas there are great, the atmosphere a little more toned-down, and the emphasis on doing a few things really nicely serves them well. 
  • Bouchon -- Unless you're just going for oysters or for a late night snack (as there are no other options in Napa), this place will disappoint you.
  • Michael Mina -- I don't care whose expense account you're on, this place is just way too pricey. It's good, but it isn't that good.
  • RN74 -- Sorry, Michael, but maybe you're spread too thinly. This place has a great vibe, terrific service and a fantastic menu, but the execution on the actual food has fallen short every single time.
  • Bottega Restaurante -- Some of the stuff on the menu here really does go above and beyond expectations in a good way, but it's just not sufficiently consistent across the menu or across visits to be worthy of its price or a recommendation.
  • La Folie -- Are you kidding me? Do you want uber-over-sauced food, a stuffy atmosphere, and a ridiculous bill? OK, if that's what you're hoping to find, go for it.
  • Commis -- On most folks' best new restaurants lists all over the world, I don't share the enthusiasm. While I love the menu and the creativity, I can't endorse the end result. And I think the atmosphere feels sterile and just a little strange.